Fruit acids are involved in the regeneration of skin cells.
A form of acid coat covers our skin. These acids are naturally present on our skin and come from our metabolism, sebum or perspiration. They are responsible for retaining the water naturally and thus ensure the hydration of the upper skin layer.
Exfoliation made with fruit acids guarantees a deeper action on the cells than the mechanical scrub. Each type of acid has its own mode of operation, but all have the same objective: to rid the skin of dead cells, correct the complexion and maintain the hydration of the epidermis.
· Acids have the ability to nibble the bonds between dead cells to promote their detachment. The action will then stimulate the Division of the epidermis cells and send signals inside the skin to promote the regeneration of the epidermis and the dermis.
As for the rhythm of application, it is recommended to alternate phases of action and rest in order to prevent the skin from getting used to the acidity. "If we over-stimulate the skin, the cells no longer divide and the ageing is accelerated.
In a mixed skin with oily, one can apply an Exfoliating lotion once every two days or do a cure of 15 consecutive days for example. However, it is not advisable to make frequent use of fruit acid on dry, allergic or highly reactive skin.
To each acid its mode of action
The action of the acids depends on the size of the molecules that compose them. The smaller the molecule, the deeper the penetration will be and the structure of the epidermis.
Glycolic acid, derived from grapes, sugarcane or beet, is the smallest
Salicylic acid is not a fruit acid, but a BHA. That is to say that it is a soluble active mainly from Willow and that dissolves in fats and oils. It is used for oily and acne skins. It attenuates blackheads, microcysts and regulates excess sebum. It softens and refines the skin grain
Citric acid, derived from citrus, is recommended for radiance and irregularities of the complexion. It is applied locally on imperfections or on the whole face, in attack treatment for four days and then twice a week on a cure of one month.
. Lactic acid, derived from the fermentation of whey can be used every day since the effect remains superficial on the epidermis.
Associating acids for a better result
Several acids are associated in the products to maximize the actions and achieve a better result. At Esthederm, the AHA Peel intensive serum consists of a mixture of lactic acid to "strengthen the skin barrier", citric acid to "eliminate dead cells and stimulate cell renewal" and finally acid Salicylic acid to "soften, soothe and refine the skin grain". A safe cocktail, according to the specialist. "There is no wrong formula but only bad uses."
Marceline Malenfant ND. A Naturopath, Esthecienne