Did you know that

What does sebum bring to the skin of vitamin E, coenzyme Q 10, melatonin and omega-3 to protect it from inflammation and oxidation from sunlight and pollution?

But when there is too much sebum and this lipid secretion is too rich in saturated fatty acids, comedones and microcystes are formed. The oxidation of this fat is transformed into a comedo commonly known as a blackhead.

We find the presence of more than 1000 billion bacteria on the skin. Sometimes these bacteria, such as staphylococcus aureus or propionibacterium acnes, cause inflammation that is normally controlled by immune defences. But when immunity is low, the black spot turns red and can turn into an infection.

White pimples are an accumulation of white blood cells that have killed themselves while trying to get rid of germs!

What are the causes of high sebum production?

Sex hormones: The increase in androgens increases the number of sebaceous glands in the skin, especially in the face, shoulders, upper back and abdomen. Which explains why boys are more affected. And when girls are, you have to suspect a hormonal disorder.

Stress: The increase in the level of norepinephrine secreted by the adrenal glands during a time of stress activates the release of fat, which appears especially in the forehead. Stress also increases the substance P secreted by nerve endings, which explains why the skin is sensitive to emotions. If the stress is intense or chronic, the secreted cortisol will be an aggravating factor in acne. This is why a pimple sometimes appears during a special stressful period for anyone, regardless of age.

Diet: Recent studies show that foods with a high glycemic index, red meat and dairy products help to increase the volume of the sebaceous glands, increase sebum secretion and thicken the surface skin layer.

These foods increase mTORC (enzyme) that promote insulin resistance. Circulating insulin can no longer bind to cellular insulin receptors, causing the body to be unable to absorb blood glucose.

And in addition, in puberty girls produce a lot of estrogen, which further increases insulin resistance, not to mention the high testosterone level in boys.

Your carbohydrate intake should come mainly from the consumption of whole grains, legumes and fruits and vegetables, which are high in fibre, micronutrients and antioxidants.

- Milk: Researchers have found testosterone precursors in milk sold on the market and their levels are even higher in skimmed milk!

- Dark chocolate with more than 74% cocoa is recommended because of its polyphenols and the positive effects on impulse control via serotonin.

Vitamins and minerals

- Pantothenic vitamin B5 helps to normalize sebum secretion in people with seborrheic or very oily skin.

- Zinc helps to metabolize hormones and modulate them. It turns out to be an anti-inflammatory. It is essential to assimilate vitamin A.

- Deficient molybdenum causes premenstrual acne.

- Vitamin A helps maintain healthy skin and mucous membranes by forming blood capillaries that provide these nutrients.

- Green tea polyphenols increase the level of molecules that bind to hormones, reducing active amounts and inhibiting the transformation of testosterone into an even more aggressive androgen. EGCG: epigallocatechin gallate is the green tea polyphenol molecule for acne.

- Magnesium reduces stress, improves the noradrenalin/serotonin ratio, calms the hyperactivity of white blood cells which are pro-inflammatory.

- You have to take vitamin D every day. Vitamin D is strongly anti-inflammatory, necessary for anti-infective defenses and supports the growth of bone mass. Ask for a blood test to find out how much should be given to correct the deficiency.

- Niacin helps to maintain normal skin. If you lack humour, you may be suffering from a niacin deficiency.

- Vitamine complex B complex with adequate doses of all B vitamins is essential for optimal function. A deficiency or excess of a single B vitamin can lead to abnormalities in the metabolism of another B vitamin.

- Probiotics improve insulin resistance through direct metabolic effects and by correcting intestinal dysbiosis.

Oily and acne skin care

No sun exposure for acne skin

• Clean the face with a cleanser that will not destroy the skin’s natural microbiota. Soap-free cleansers are available.
• Lotion the face with propolis.
• Apply locally on the buttons of the vervain essential oil of India. Caution! It will heat up!
Apply a thick layer of aloe vera to make a mask. Do not be afraid of the feeling of warmth during the mask or the redness of the skin. It lasts only a few minutes.

Cream with the retinoid
The natural retinoid is retinoic acid. It is the final product of retinol (vitamin A).
Retinoids trigger cell regeneration activity that goes as far as renewing the subcutaneous vascular system. An excellent anti-comeson effect.

Treatment in an institute with photomodulation

For an anti-infective effect, without disinfectants, antibiotics and UV. The principle of blue LEDs or light-emitting diodes is based on the stimulation of the production of free radicals by acne bacteria exposed to blue light. This production of free radicals acts as a toxin against the bacteria and reduces its concentration.
Bacteria by absorbing blue light produce oxygen that is harmful to them.

There are excellent products from the brand ESTHEDERM for oily and acne skin: The Intensive Propolis range and the Pure Systeme range.

Marceline Malenfant ND. A
Naturopathy and Estheticien


Fabbrocini G, Bertona M, Picazo Ó, Pareja-Galeano H, Monfrecola G, Emanuele E. Supplementation with Lactobacillus rhamnosus SP1 normalises skin expression of genes implicated in insulin signalling and improves adult acne. Benef Microbes. 2016 Nov 30;7(5):625-630. Epub 2016 Sep 6.

Photomodulation by led's

LED biostimulation is a stimulation of the mitochondria of our cells by a cold light (not producing heat like lasers). This is an action called photo-modulating and not photothermal like lasers. It's a photomodulation.

Painless and without side effects.  Stimulates and regenerates skin cells. Helps to partially reduce wrinkles, sagging skin and contribute to the improvement of skin texture and outward signs of aging of the Peel like its thinning, lack of tone or firmness and dull complexion.  Participates in the maintenance of the balance of the extracellular matrix of the dermis.

Led treatments  allow the return of the cellular integrity of mature and photo-aged fibroblasts by allowing them to regain their potential for collagen secretion. Similarly, LEDs can reduce the risk of pigmented rebound and brown spots after an inflammatory process (e.g. after a burn, peeling or laser...).

Blue light applications

– Achieve an anti-bacterial effect on the skin
– purifying and healing effect at the DermIS
– promote scarring, tensor, oxygenation and rehydration

Operation: the electromagnetic waves emitted by blue light will stimulate natural substances (porphyrins) present in cells that can play the role of cofactor linked to certain enzymes that will produce, by excitation of the emitted light, a very reactive oxygen type (Singlet oxygen) that reacts strongly to the hydrogen present in the cytoplasmic membrane of the cells. 

The mechanism generated is an increase in water within the cytoplasmic limit of the cell, which will cause a mechanism of hyper hydration and tissue compression expansion.

With a wavelength of 415 mm, the blue light has properties that help to calm the inflammation of the skin. Acne is caused mainly by acidic bacilli; Blue light destroys these bacteria without harming the tissues of the skin. In a short session, you will be able to reduce and cure acne and make blackheads disappear

Applications red light.

– Regeneration of collagen and elastin
– stimulation of blood circulation
– actions on wrinkles, scars, stretch marks (and thinning)
– tissue regeneration (activation of fibroblasts) and fibers elastic
– mild thermal action that stimulates anti-infectious defenses
– treatment of Red stretchmarks
– strong attenuation of white stretch marks
– tightens skin pores. ..

Operation: the electromagnetic waves emitted by the red light penetrate particularly well into the skin.  They stimulate the membrane of the mitochondria constituting the place of cell respiration, which has the function of regenerating the energy-producing molecule of the cell or ATP.  The combination of growth factors (ATP, DNA, RNA) increases cell activity and leads to cell repair, stimulation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes that synthesate collagen and elastin.

Applications light yellow orange.

– Improved blood circulation
– lymphatic drainage
– toning of the polishing muscles
– strengthens the surface of the skin
– help in case of wrinkles
– lightening of scars
– smoothes the skin...  

Functioning: it serves as a catalyst for the vast majority of cellular functions by proteins which are the essential elements of cell life.  By receiving the orange-yellow light, the enzymatic receptor releases ions that adhere immediately to the cytoplasmic membPhotomodulation by led's

Calm the redness. It improves blood and lymphatic circulation and thus has a draining, anti-edema effect.

The pulse cycles of the orange-yellow light allow stimulation of the receptors found in different tissues of muscle, adipose or other types.

Marceline Malenfant ND.A